Napier Broome Bay

It was like someone had turned a switch when we reached Darwin. No longer did we have to drape hand towels around our necks to stop the perspiration from streaming down our bodies. The beach towels that had to stay on the steering seat and our lounge to keep them sort of dry, are now washed and packed away, never to come out again I hope. Our finger tips have returned to normality and are no longer “granny” like. How can people live in this climate all year round? At least they would save $$$’s on moisturizers.
The pleasure of being able to pull up a blanket or two compared to tossing and turning all night is where we are with our weather at the moment. The temperature during the day time allows us still to wear shorts and singlet tops, though, one early start Ian came out in his windsheater; are we becoming acclimatized as the gang of 3 are still enjoying all the warmth.
Our time cruising Napier Broome Bay since we rounded Cape Londonderry has seen us refuel in West Bay… a story to be told, collect fresh water, discover wonderful small water falls, have 2 sharks welcome us at Freshwater Cove in Vansittart Bay and continue to guard us by swimming around Kiella.We have been told via another boat that these ones are quiet tame!!!!
The pearl farms are extensive as we head further SW and you have to be on the look out as the buoys are black, and not really visible.
The crocodile stories from people are all rather similar that, be aware and on the look out as they are around. We are looking and still our count is one, even if the imagination runs wild and we believe that rocks are really moving our way as we all scramble into our dingy as Ian is exploring what is over the sand dune…..enough said.
Our search for rock paintings had been fruitless until Julia Day when we discovered such marvelous works of art that are said to be 10,000+ years. Again our cameras worked over time after we had climbed the rocks after walking through water behind the beach to find these early works of art. Que amazed herself as she rock hopped, scrambled over fallen branches to be with us all as we finally celebrated our find.
Paspaley Pearls mother ship was working in the area as they took their workers to their plots to check the leases. What an operation as the areas of buoys cover many bays with these precious shells nurturing their introduced seed. Last season they harvested 1,000,000 shells.
The Mitchell River in Admiralty Bay was our destination on 25th June. It’s very different than our others as it’s a lot wider, like really wide. Sand banks and rocks are a hazard about 1/3 of the way up stream, so with the tide falling a look in the dingy was needed. It proved to be valuable as we slowly ventured up the next day. Croc spotting saw a nice one on a rock getting a sun tan, that evening, Marg our chief spotter had 5 more verified by the captain using the spot light. Washing the next morning up Seagull Creek was efficient and great as the water streaming over the rock pools provided plenty for all our laundry. What a sight, 3 bots up in the air scrubbing, rinsing, wringing, and croc watching, while Ian filled our bowls and topped up the containers for our water tanks. There is nothing like excess water to splash around in and CLEAN sheets.
Tomorrow we continue to head sort of west, while unfortunately FA have to return to Napier Broome Bay to pick up new internal working for their anchor winch, these are being flown in and we will all meet up by next weekend, weather and Australia Post permitting.

From Marg:
Elaine has mentioned Julia Day which we celebrated in Freshwater Bay and Jar Island on June 24th when we heard, via Kyra’s alert, that we had a new prime minister. Elaine and I donned red headwear (see photo) and Ian unfurled his Eureka flag, and we were met on our return by Bill in his royal blue budgie smugglers, and later, his RIP Rudd the Dud t-shirt. Apart from an occasional partial sports bulletin Pam manages to catch, it was as much as we had heard of the body politic for three weeks, so it made our day! In the trade-off between pouring over every word of analysis that would usually be the case and our current newsless existence, the Kimberley wins hands down. We had drinks the previous evening in Freshwater with a couple on a yacht called Reality - very fittingly named!

We arrived in Mitchell River on 26th, and anchored the first night near a barra boat, loaded to the gills with drums of diesel and fish, having been out since April. Our own catch is less than we have fantasized – Elaine has caught a couple of magnificent fish but now we seem to specialize more in catfish that are returned to the water, rather than the barra, mackerel and salmon that the lure packages promise. The Mitchell has offered us great opportunities to see crocs, but we think they are also keeping the fish away from us – our story anyway.

With FA’s anchor winch problems alluded to already, Clive and Ian have spent many hours working with Bill on solutions, but a replacement ended up being the only option. We have been rafted up together for two days and they will set off tomorrow at first light, to meet us again in a few days – for Elaine’s birthday on Saturday, at least. This river has been the most tidal so far, and sandbars have reduced our movement or entry to creeks to high tide only. It has been very pleasant to relax and enjoy the beautiful ambience of the river, the full moon in eclipse on Saturday night following the sunset, the magnificent skies, including Kimberley’s own version of (non-productive) dry season rain clouds, the soaring eagles, and, self-interestedly, to enjoy the place to ourselves, except for very occasional tourist helicopters, but this time not delivering them at our feet.