Kiella and the good ship 'Foreign Affair' have left Broome on their return journey to Darwin. The lovely Sue and Chris Howard are aboard and adapting to boat-life.
Kiella returned to SilverLeaves so everyone could hop into the tank and cool off. They have since been bathing in waterfalls and have even managed to wash their clothes in some fresh water pools.
Chris has been enjoying the fishing and catching some striped tuna - some of which have have been nibbled by sharks. They even caught one of the sharks but cut it loose. It seems that the aquatic life is a lot more visible this time around with Chris encountering a 7ft crocodile at 3am in the morning whilst standing on the duck board gazing at the moon (Ahem).
Everyone is well, apart from a few 'southern' colds and they are all enjoying the serenity.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Friday, July 23, 2010
Broome and FRESH FOOD
Sue and Chris brought onboard a mass of fresh food and did we all pig out on it.
In Broome after 1173.52 nm. from Darwin
We are in Brome and yes, ready to leave tomorrow morning. We arrived on Sunday 18th one day ahead of our plan, this was due to the generator not working and we needed a new impellor. Since then Pam, Marg and Clive have moved ashore and helped so much with the provisioning for the trip to Darwin. This has given Sue and Chris Howard valuable time with their family before they move onboard.
The latter part of the voyage WSW after refueling at Dog Leg Creek found us in Silver Gull Creek for 2 days. We visited Phil who with his wife Marion,{who was away} have lived there for quiet awhile. We enjoyed listening to the stories and sitting in the tank that was converted to a large sitting on plastic chairs under an umbrella. The whole tank had shade mesh over it and with the abundant fresh water that had been warmed as it came from the spring through black pipes we all chilled out totally .A rectangle hole had been cut about a meter from the bottom so the water could spill over, but small enough that you could not get through.. Wee frogs also lived in this warm environment. The tanks, of which there are 3 but only 1 ok, are the remains which BHP [who had mined at Koolan Island previously] had built to collect fresh water. I hooked a lovely mackerel while in the bay but as it came to the back the lure spat out, next time I aim to fling it onboard as there was no time to gaff it. We saw many fish working Silver Gull and finally caught a bream.
On to Copper mine for one night then Beagle Bay, past Cape Lévesque and into Gantheaume Point which adjoins Cable Beach. Bronte Howard had organized a mooring for us which was wonderful as the holding here leaves a bit to be desired.
We have tasted some wonderful food, spent time in the Museum which has a great collection of memorable about the area, enjoyed coffee ashore most mornings, caught up with Dean and Deb Watchorn and their 2 boys Brock and Adam who are traveling around for awhile. Dean mentioned names of locals that are up here but have only run into the Peinings[ex Ingles rd.] and Jenny and Mic Flynn’s son Dale, who is running kayak trips.
The tides are neaps at the present so the range has been minimal. The wheels on the dingy have proved themselves as the sand is very firm. Its been great as Ian runs a taxi service at night , picks up FA and John from Patrica VII,[ who we have run into since north Qld.] and we all pile into Bills hire car and enjoy a scrumptious meal with the ashore crew.
All this comes to a halt tomorrow, with Kiella loaded up with a good 6 weeks supply of food , wine/beer, more fishing lures we head NNE. Sue and Chris will move on tomorrow early and join us to explore more of this wonderful coast of ours.
We will update this site early September when we are in Darwin while Kyra will make entries as she speaks to us via sat phone.
Ps, boy we are all so sad to miss all the election stuff….hah ha
The latter part of the voyage WSW after refueling at Dog Leg Creek found us in Silver Gull Creek for 2 days. We visited Phil who with his wife Marion,{who was away} have lived there for quiet awhile. We enjoyed listening to the stories and sitting in the tank that was converted to a large sitting on plastic chairs under an umbrella. The whole tank had shade mesh over it and with the abundant fresh water that had been warmed as it came from the spring through black pipes we all chilled out totally .A rectangle hole had been cut about a meter from the bottom so the water could spill over, but small enough that you could not get through.. Wee frogs also lived in this warm environment. The tanks, of which there are 3 but only 1 ok, are the remains which BHP [who had mined at Koolan Island previously] had built to collect fresh water. I hooked a lovely mackerel while in the bay but as it came to the back the lure spat out, next time I aim to fling it onboard as there was no time to gaff it. We saw many fish working Silver Gull and finally caught a bream.
On to Copper mine for one night then Beagle Bay, past Cape Lévesque and into Gantheaume Point which adjoins Cable Beach. Bronte Howard had organized a mooring for us which was wonderful as the holding here leaves a bit to be desired.
We have tasted some wonderful food, spent time in the Museum which has a great collection of memorable about the area, enjoyed coffee ashore most mornings, caught up with Dean and Deb Watchorn and their 2 boys Brock and Adam who are traveling around for awhile. Dean mentioned names of locals that are up here but have only run into the Peinings[ex Ingles rd.] and Jenny and Mic Flynn’s son Dale, who is running kayak trips.
The tides are neaps at the present so the range has been minimal. The wheels on the dingy have proved themselves as the sand is very firm. Its been great as Ian runs a taxi service at night , picks up FA and John from Patrica VII,[ who we have run into since north Qld.] and we all pile into Bills hire car and enjoy a scrumptious meal with the ashore crew.
All this comes to a halt tomorrow, with Kiella loaded up with a good 6 weeks supply of food , wine/beer, more fishing lures we head NNE. Sue and Chris will move on tomorrow early and join us to explore more of this wonderful coast of ours.
We will update this site early September when we are in Darwin while Kyra will make entries as she speaks to us via sat phone.
Ps, boy we are all so sad to miss all the election stuff….hah ha
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Red Hair day and Boab
June 24th we celebrated with red hair.
A great Boab we found above the falls in Glycosmis Bay.
OOOOPS ! read the tide book!
This is what we found after a great walk to the falls in Berkeley River.
Napier Broome Bay
It was like someone had turned a switch when we reached Darwin. No longer did we have to drape hand towels around our necks to stop the perspiration from streaming down our bodies. The beach towels that had to stay on the steering seat and our lounge to keep them sort of dry, are now washed and packed away, never to come out again I hope. Our finger tips have returned to normality and are no longer “granny” like. How can people live in this climate all year round? At least they would save $$$’s on moisturizers.
The pleasure of being able to pull up a blanket or two compared to tossing and turning all night is where we are with our weather at the moment. The temperature during the day time allows us still to wear shorts and singlet tops, though, one early start Ian came out in his windsheater; are we becoming acclimatized as the gang of 3 are still enjoying all the warmth.
Our time cruising Napier Broome Bay since we rounded Cape Londonderry has seen us refuel in West Bay… a story to be told, collect fresh water, discover wonderful small water falls, have 2 sharks welcome us at Freshwater Cove in Vansittart Bay and continue to guard us by swimming around Kiella.We have been told via another boat that these ones are quiet tame!!!!
The pearl farms are extensive as we head further SW and you have to be on the look out as the buoys are black, and not really visible.
The crocodile stories from people are all rather similar that, be aware and on the look out as they are around. We are looking and still our count is one, even if the imagination runs wild and we believe that rocks are really moving our way as we all scramble into our dingy as Ian is exploring what is over the sand dune…..enough said.
Our search for rock paintings had been fruitless until Julia Day when we discovered such marvelous works of art that are said to be 10,000+ years. Again our cameras worked over time after we had climbed the rocks after walking through water behind the beach to find these early works of art. Que amazed herself as she rock hopped, scrambled over fallen branches to be with us all as we finally celebrated our find.
Paspaley Pearls mother ship was working in the area as they took their workers to their plots to check the leases. What an operation as the areas of buoys cover many bays with these precious shells nurturing their introduced seed. Last season they harvested 1,000,000 shells.
The Mitchell River in Admiralty Bay was our destination on 25th June. It’s very different than our others as it’s a lot wider, like really wide. Sand banks and rocks are a hazard about 1/3 of the way up stream, so with the tide falling a look in the dingy was needed. It proved to be valuable as we slowly ventured up the next day. Croc spotting saw a nice one on a rock getting a sun tan, that evening, Marg our chief spotter had 5 more verified by the captain using the spot light. Washing the next morning up Seagull Creek was efficient and great as the water streaming over the rock pools provided plenty for all our laundry. What a sight, 3 bots up in the air scrubbing, rinsing, wringing, and croc watching, while Ian filled our bowls and topped up the containers for our water tanks. There is nothing like excess water to splash around in and CLEAN sheets.
Tomorrow we continue to head sort of west, while unfortunately FA have to return to Napier Broome Bay to pick up new internal working for their anchor winch, these are being flown in and we will all meet up by next weekend, weather and Australia Post permitting.
From Marg:
Elaine has mentioned Julia Day which we celebrated in Freshwater Bay and Jar Island on June 24th when we heard, via Kyra’s alert, that we had a new prime minister. Elaine and I donned red headwear (see photo) and Ian unfurled his Eureka flag, and we were met on our return by Bill in his royal blue budgie smugglers, and later, his RIP Rudd the Dud t-shirt. Apart from an occasional partial sports bulletin Pam manages to catch, it was as much as we had heard of the body politic for three weeks, so it made our day! In the trade-off between pouring over every word of analysis that would usually be the case and our current newsless existence, the Kimberley wins hands down. We had drinks the previous evening in Freshwater with a couple on a yacht called Reality - very fittingly named!
We arrived in Mitchell River on 26th, and anchored the first night near a barra boat, loaded to the gills with drums of diesel and fish, having been out since April. Our own catch is less than we have fantasized – Elaine has caught a couple of magnificent fish but now we seem to specialize more in catfish that are returned to the water, rather than the barra, mackerel and salmon that the lure packages promise. The Mitchell has offered us great opportunities to see crocs, but we think they are also keeping the fish away from us – our story anyway.
With FA’s anchor winch problems alluded to already, Clive and Ian have spent many hours working with Bill on solutions, but a replacement ended up being the only option. We have been rafted up together for two days and they will set off tomorrow at first light, to meet us again in a few days – for Elaine’s birthday on Saturday, at least. This river has been the most tidal so far, and sandbars have reduced our movement or entry to creeks to high tide only. It has been very pleasant to relax and enjoy the beautiful ambience of the river, the full moon in eclipse on Saturday night following the sunset, the magnificent skies, including Kimberley’s own version of (non-productive) dry season rain clouds, the soaring eagles, and, self-interestedly, to enjoy the place to ourselves, except for very occasional tourist helicopters, but this time not delivering them at our feet.
The pleasure of being able to pull up a blanket or two compared to tossing and turning all night is where we are with our weather at the moment. The temperature during the day time allows us still to wear shorts and singlet tops, though, one early start Ian came out in his windsheater; are we becoming acclimatized as the gang of 3 are still enjoying all the warmth.
Our time cruising Napier Broome Bay since we rounded Cape Londonderry has seen us refuel in West Bay… a story to be told, collect fresh water, discover wonderful small water falls, have 2 sharks welcome us at Freshwater Cove in Vansittart Bay and continue to guard us by swimming around Kiella.We have been told via another boat that these ones are quiet tame!!!!
The pearl farms are extensive as we head further SW and you have to be on the look out as the buoys are black, and not really visible.
The crocodile stories from people are all rather similar that, be aware and on the look out as they are around. We are looking and still our count is one, even if the imagination runs wild and we believe that rocks are really moving our way as we all scramble into our dingy as Ian is exploring what is over the sand dune…..enough said.
Our search for rock paintings had been fruitless until Julia Day when we discovered such marvelous works of art that are said to be 10,000+ years. Again our cameras worked over time after we had climbed the rocks after walking through water behind the beach to find these early works of art. Que amazed herself as she rock hopped, scrambled over fallen branches to be with us all as we finally celebrated our find.
Paspaley Pearls mother ship was working in the area as they took their workers to their plots to check the leases. What an operation as the areas of buoys cover many bays with these precious shells nurturing their introduced seed. Last season they harvested 1,000,000 shells.
The Mitchell River in Admiralty Bay was our destination on 25th June. It’s very different than our others as it’s a lot wider, like really wide. Sand banks and rocks are a hazard about 1/3 of the way up stream, so with the tide falling a look in the dingy was needed. It proved to be valuable as we slowly ventured up the next day. Croc spotting saw a nice one on a rock getting a sun tan, that evening, Marg our chief spotter had 5 more verified by the captain using the spot light. Washing the next morning up Seagull Creek was efficient and great as the water streaming over the rock pools provided plenty for all our laundry. What a sight, 3 bots up in the air scrubbing, rinsing, wringing, and croc watching, while Ian filled our bowls and topped up the containers for our water tanks. There is nothing like excess water to splash around in and CLEAN sheets.
Tomorrow we continue to head sort of west, while unfortunately FA have to return to Napier Broome Bay to pick up new internal working for their anchor winch, these are being flown in and we will all meet up by next weekend, weather and Australia Post permitting.
From Marg:
Elaine has mentioned Julia Day which we celebrated in Freshwater Bay and Jar Island on June 24th when we heard, via Kyra’s alert, that we had a new prime minister. Elaine and I donned red headwear (see photo) and Ian unfurled his Eureka flag, and we were met on our return by Bill in his royal blue budgie smugglers, and later, his RIP Rudd the Dud t-shirt. Apart from an occasional partial sports bulletin Pam manages to catch, it was as much as we had heard of the body politic for three weeks, so it made our day! In the trade-off between pouring over every word of analysis that would usually be the case and our current newsless existence, the Kimberley wins hands down. We had drinks the previous evening in Freshwater with a couple on a yacht called Reality - very fittingly named!
We arrived in Mitchell River on 26th, and anchored the first night near a barra boat, loaded to the gills with drums of diesel and fish, having been out since April. Our own catch is less than we have fantasized – Elaine has caught a couple of magnificent fish but now we seem to specialize more in catfish that are returned to the water, rather than the barra, mackerel and salmon that the lure packages promise. The Mitchell has offered us great opportunities to see crocs, but we think they are also keeping the fish away from us – our story anyway.
With FA’s anchor winch problems alluded to already, Clive and Ian have spent many hours working with Bill on solutions, but a replacement ended up being the only option. We have been rafted up together for two days and they will set off tomorrow at first light, to meet us again in a few days – for Elaine’s birthday on Saturday, at least. This river has been the most tidal so far, and sandbars have reduced our movement or entry to creeks to high tide only. It has been very pleasant to relax and enjoy the beautiful ambience of the river, the full moon in eclipse on Saturday night following the sunset, the magnificent skies, including Kimberley’s own version of (non-productive) dry season rain clouds, the soaring eagles, and, self-interestedly, to enjoy the place to ourselves, except for very occasional tourist helicopters, but this time not delivering them at our feet.
Swift Bay
On Tuesday 30/6, we anchored in a beautiful arm of Swift Bay and explored the beach and freshwater resource. The beach was formed by a steep shell slope, and beyond it rocks on which hundreds of crabs scuttled in their borrowed shell homes; an eagle’s nest occupied a nearby cliff. Kiella was again welcomed by a family of sharks. Ian and Clive collected fresh water from a PVC pipe left by the pearlers. Elaine and Marg attempted further fishing, unsuccessfully.
The next day we took the dinghy further into the Bay in search of paintings, and were rewarded magnificently. On two massive boulder overhangs we found a rich gallery of work, with perhaps the most profoundly moving two larger than life figures: one a female form for which we assumed deeply spiritual significance. It could almost have prefigured Christian iconography, arms outstretched, broad hips, and its head surrounded by a ‘halo’ with ‘saintly’ figures embedded. The second was a 200+ cm. long male body, painted on the roof of the overhang, its legs not clearly distinguished but which could have taken fish-form.
We had drinks with Ros and Ross from R & R, who were a mine of information on their fourth trip to the Kimberley. That night we experienced rain!
Palm Island
Another beautiful passage, with overcast skies, to Palm Island and the mangrove creek/river that provided a wonderful context for more impressive artwork. The rocks were unbelievably coloured – red, yellow and brown, blue and purple, black and white, providing the obvious source of the ochres that have withstood tens of thousands of years of weathering. This gallery contains the oldest known depiction of a boat, a canoe with four occupants: a shock to discover it is only 20-25 cm. wide.
The tides required a move to a deeper harbour around Palm Is, where the weather blew up from the south-west in the late afternoon, providing our first wild weather – seas quite calm but winds creating spectacular effects. Palm Is itself presented a beautifully textured hillside to the waters’ edge, with a row of palms fringing the ridge.
Next morning we were off on a long days travel form Palm Is to Hanover Bay, going through York Sound via Careening Bay an overall trip of 78 nautical miles. Careening Bay was named by Philip Parker King when he had to take his boat as far into the shore as possible to careen the hull of his boat. His boat “Mermaid” had been built in India in 1816, but unfortunately the nails used were made of iron so they had rusted causing wood to move and leaks to occur. A large Boab about 100 meters from the beach has carved on it “HMO Mermaid 1820”.
Friday 2/7/10 saw us in Hanover Bay, via Scott’s Strait. We anchored beside Explorer 1 and also Patricia VII, whom Ian and Elaine had met in Margaret Bay, Qld, and later in Darwin. The creek beyond the anchorage provided further spectacular gorges and reflections, but no fish! The engines were serviced by Ian and Clive while we waited for FA to arrive, as they had picked up their new anchor winch.
Sampson’s Inlet, a so called cyclone refuge was our next anchorage on 5/07/2010, and we finally found a shallow spot in 12 meters of water about 1500 hrs. The fishing as you all are aware has not been great, so out with the rod and lure and some improving casting from the boat found a young hawk on the shinny lure. With some quick thinking from the crew, a towel was popped on its head {after it had a small trip across the water and then onto the duck board}, the side cutters out and one nasty barb was removed all in the blink of an eye. I’m sure that the next time it sees a fish swimming it will have second thoughts. Sandy managed to hook a magnificent estuary cod, while Marg hooked a smaller one. With a couple of trevally also from FA we had fish for dinner…… at last.
Camden Sound gave us our first encounter with whales and we happen to see one breach in front of us as we again headed WSW. The seas helped all with whale spotting as they glassed out and we saw other pods as we motored to Doubtful Bay.
Red Cone Hill at the entrance of the creek in the Bay stood up proud, but was green, this we put down to the late wet season and the lush growth on it. As we meandered up we came across 5 trailer sailors from Perth, who had launched their boats in Derby and all had 3 months to enjoy this great coast and its wonderful estuaries and inlets. Need less to say, sundowners on Kiella with all plus FA that evening was full of laughter, stories and the odd can or two. That morning 10 boats were at anchor and we felt civilization had started to catch up with us all again. Three nights there with a trip out to Montgomery Reef and back, a trip up to Red Cone falls to check out the laundry facilities, sundowners with other yachties, our lack of human contact had certainly exploded.
Horizantal Falls in Talbert Bay had us making a booking to ride the whirlpools at the best possible time to get the thrills from passing through these wee gaps ….so 2 days to kill, so around the islands and into Dugong Bay. This is another magnificent area of the Kimberly region. We had our own croc that circled us at low water and checked us both out regularly. The Spectacular falls provided us with plenty of easy to get water and did we” pig out” .Kiella looked like a Chinese laundry as everything flapped in the breeze. The girls also had a beauty session!!!!!!
Tuesday 13 we all thoroughly enjoyed the ride of a life time, even if I had to shut my eyes once. The talents of those young guys who handle such a powerful craft are to be admired. Pictures don’t do justice to what we experienced although the cameras were working overtime again.
Dog Leg Creek beckons as we need to refuel, so tomorrow up with the birds and out with the wallet.
On Tuesday 30/6, we anchored in a beautiful arm of Swift Bay and explored the beach and freshwater resource. The beach was formed by a steep shell slope, and beyond it rocks on which hundreds of crabs scuttled in their borrowed shell homes; an eagle’s nest occupied a nearby cliff. Kiella was again welcomed by a family of sharks. Ian and Clive collected fresh water from a PVC pipe left by the pearlers. Elaine and Marg attempted further fishing, unsuccessfully.
The next day we took the dinghy further into the Bay in search of paintings, and were rewarded magnificently. On two massive boulder overhangs we found a rich gallery of work, with perhaps the most profoundly moving two larger than life figures: one a female form for which we assumed deeply spiritual significance. It could almost have prefigured Christian iconography, arms outstretched, broad hips, and its head surrounded by a ‘halo’ with ‘saintly’ figures embedded. The second was a 200+ cm. long male body, painted on the roof of the overhang, its legs not clearly distinguished but which could have taken fish-form.
We had drinks with Ros and Ross from R & R, who were a mine of information on their fourth trip to the Kimberley. That night we experienced rain!
Palm Island
Another beautiful passage, with overcast skies, to Palm Island and the mangrove creek/river that provided a wonderful context for more impressive artwork. The rocks were unbelievably coloured – red, yellow and brown, blue and purple, black and white, providing the obvious source of the ochres that have withstood tens of thousands of years of weathering. This gallery contains the oldest known depiction of a boat, a canoe with four occupants: a shock to discover it is only 20-25 cm. wide.
The tides required a move to a deeper harbour around Palm Is, where the weather blew up from the south-west in the late afternoon, providing our first wild weather – seas quite calm but winds creating spectacular effects. Palm Is itself presented a beautifully textured hillside to the waters’ edge, with a row of palms fringing the ridge.
Next morning we were off on a long days travel form Palm Is to Hanover Bay, going through York Sound via Careening Bay an overall trip of 78 nautical miles. Careening Bay was named by Philip Parker King when he had to take his boat as far into the shore as possible to careen the hull of his boat. His boat “Mermaid” had been built in India in 1816, but unfortunately the nails used were made of iron so they had rusted causing wood to move and leaks to occur. A large Boab about 100 meters from the beach has carved on it “HMO Mermaid 1820”.
Friday 2/7/10 saw us in Hanover Bay, via Scott’s Strait. We anchored beside Explorer 1 and also Patricia VII, whom Ian and Elaine had met in Margaret Bay, Qld, and later in Darwin. The creek beyond the anchorage provided further spectacular gorges and reflections, but no fish! The engines were serviced by Ian and Clive while we waited for FA to arrive, as they had picked up their new anchor winch.
Sampson’s Inlet, a so called cyclone refuge was our next anchorage on 5/07/2010, and we finally found a shallow spot in 12 meters of water about 1500 hrs. The fishing as you all are aware has not been great, so out with the rod and lure and some improving casting from the boat found a young hawk on the shinny lure. With some quick thinking from the crew, a towel was popped on its head {after it had a small trip across the water and then onto the duck board}, the side cutters out and one nasty barb was removed all in the blink of an eye. I’m sure that the next time it sees a fish swimming it will have second thoughts. Sandy managed to hook a magnificent estuary cod, while Marg hooked a smaller one. With a couple of trevally also from FA we had fish for dinner…… at last.
Camden Sound gave us our first encounter with whales and we happen to see one breach in front of us as we again headed WSW. The seas helped all with whale spotting as they glassed out and we saw other pods as we motored to Doubtful Bay.
Red Cone Hill at the entrance of the creek in the Bay stood up proud, but was green, this we put down to the late wet season and the lush growth on it. As we meandered up we came across 5 trailer sailors from Perth, who had launched their boats in Derby and all had 3 months to enjoy this great coast and its wonderful estuaries and inlets. Need less to say, sundowners on Kiella with all plus FA that evening was full of laughter, stories and the odd can or two. That morning 10 boats were at anchor and we felt civilization had started to catch up with us all again. Three nights there with a trip out to Montgomery Reef and back, a trip up to Red Cone falls to check out the laundry facilities, sundowners with other yachties, our lack of human contact had certainly exploded.
Horizantal Falls in Talbert Bay had us making a booking to ride the whirlpools at the best possible time to get the thrills from passing through these wee gaps ….so 2 days to kill, so around the islands and into Dugong Bay. This is another magnificent area of the Kimberly region. We had our own croc that circled us at low water and checked us both out regularly. The Spectacular falls provided us with plenty of easy to get water and did we” pig out” .Kiella looked like a Chinese laundry as everything flapped in the breeze. The girls also had a beauty session!!!!!!
Tuesday 13 we all thoroughly enjoyed the ride of a life time, even if I had to shut my eyes once. The talents of those young guys who handle such a powerful craft are to be admired. Pictures don’t do justice to what we experienced although the cameras were working overtime again.
Dog Leg Creek beckons as we need to refuel, so tomorrow up with the birds and out with the wallet.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Darwin to Gylcosmis Bay
Pam’s Bit…….!
Left Darwin on Tuesday 8th. June after filling the boat’s fuel tanks to the brim and headed south down the Franz Joseph Bonaparte Gulf – known locally as Blownapart Gulf – how apt! We anchored at Crystal Creek for the night but next morning up anchored at 0355 to head across the Gulf to the Berkeley River. Marg and I have little comment to make about the crossing – a horizontal position accompanied by a plastic bucket our preferred mode for the day. We entered the Berkeley River at 1600 to calm, tranquil water – heaven!
The next day we moved further into the river near to Casuaina Creek inlet, later explored in the dinghy to find 40 meter waterfalls and amazing rock escarpments. Found the scree where it was possible to gain access to the top. The scree is a landslide of rocks and boulders. Bill and Sandy moored Foreign Affair up in Casuarina Creek near the falls.
Next day all except me, climbed the scree slope and walked along the cliff top to the falls before following the creek upstream about 500 meters in search of Bradshaw paintings on rocks and did not find the site. Sighted a large turtle feeding on jelly fish. The tide dropped while they were up the mountain and was a bit shocked to see everyone being ferried back to Kiella in FA’s dinghy. Kiella’s dinghy high and dry in the rocks – floated off nicely once the water rose again.
The next morning we moved further up the river through 100 meter high gorge, mooring opposite a waterfall, saw our first croc, as well as rock wallabies, eagle, small boab. Took dinghy to small 2 meter waterfall, explored the rockpools, water lilies, silky oak in flower, superb St Andrew spider and web. Then went further upriver to the rock wall small falls and rock pools. Later in the afternoon we went down to the Amphitheatre Falls 60 meters, cathedral like rocky escarpment towered around the falls.
It is now Sunday morning- sent the men for water from the Red Amphitheatre falls and it was time for some serious washing to be done. Sandy had caught a 85cm Trevally early in the morning – she shared some with us which we enjoyed for tea. Marg had caught catfish but later hooked a large rock – none worth eating! Elaine caught a barra…….coota – cant be eaten, but the next morning a she surpassed all by hauling in a 95cm, about 10kilos of Trevally –will produce 3 wonderful tasty meals. Monday cruised back to the entrance of the river for early departure next morning. New moon and pod of porpoises. The Berkeley River is majestic, tranquil and extraordinarily ancient, the geological architecture is stunning.
And now from Marg
We left the Berkeley for King George River at 6.00hrs, through some robust seas which Pam and I survived rather better this time. It was very windy inside the entrance so we anchored upriver below the falls. It was fascinating to see how different the geology of this river is – it appears more eroded and crumbly in parts, more honeycombed, with some precariously balanced rocks on precipitous clifftops. But the colours are just as wonderful as in Berkeley. The river ends in 95 metre high waterfalls, with massive rock overhangs, little caves and hanging gardens forty feet above water level.
The following day we walked up a scree slope to reach the top of the falls. Beautiful rockpools and interesting clambering, with magnificent views down the valley and to the boats below. Our peace was broken by the arrival of numbers of True North passengers who not only walked up the scree behind us but arrived by helicopter! The river had become rather crowded – the cruiser had 6 dinghies on board as well as the aircraft. By the next day we were joined by jetskis and a vast catamaran. Almost time to leave.
Kiella makes it own desal water but for the last few days the adventure has been to collect our own fresh water. Ian brought the boat under the waterfall and 75 litres was collected, wet t-shirts were the least of this event! As we had had a burn-off above the river, with visible flames and an awful lot of smoke and ash, it provided a great opportunity to wash down the boat.
Next day, Friday 18/6, we headed off to Glycosmis Bay. A very calm passage for two and a half hours until the sandbar entrance required some negotiation. We anchored near the falls and went off in the dinghy in search of the cave, mapped to indicate the start of the walk up to the top. After lunch we clambered up the cliff, over rocks and under trees, two shell middens, avoiding green ants and barbed branches, to the top, and an easier walk around to the falls, past two extraordinary boab trees. One, perhaps thousand of years old, had carved sides where plates of timber for shields had been removed.
Elaines …………….
Rock climbing, green ants, rivers that zig and zag through narrow gorges, high huge boulders, vines that have wee barbs on them that snare you, waterfalls, and fresh pools, large variety of native flowers, dark skies full of starts so bright, red tinged high escarpments……these are only a few of the reflections that I have of our time since we left Darwin. The camera has worked over time and I’m sure that it can not duplicate the grandeur that we all have just seen and experienced. I have climbed rock faces that seem impossible for this person ever to have scrambled up, the reward that having done so, has been more pictures. The early part of the Kimberley’s has totally blown me away.
What we have yet to see and discover from now to Broome I’m sure will just be as exciting.
Left Darwin on Tuesday 8th. June after filling the boat’s fuel tanks to the brim and headed south down the Franz Joseph Bonaparte Gulf – known locally as Blownapart Gulf – how apt! We anchored at Crystal Creek for the night but next morning up anchored at 0355 to head across the Gulf to the Berkeley River. Marg and I have little comment to make about the crossing – a horizontal position accompanied by a plastic bucket our preferred mode for the day. We entered the Berkeley River at 1600 to calm, tranquil water – heaven!
The next day we moved further into the river near to Casuaina Creek inlet, later explored in the dinghy to find 40 meter waterfalls and amazing rock escarpments. Found the scree where it was possible to gain access to the top. The scree is a landslide of rocks and boulders. Bill and Sandy moored Foreign Affair up in Casuarina Creek near the falls.
Next day all except me, climbed the scree slope and walked along the cliff top to the falls before following the creek upstream about 500 meters in search of Bradshaw paintings on rocks and did not find the site. Sighted a large turtle feeding on jelly fish. The tide dropped while they were up the mountain and was a bit shocked to see everyone being ferried back to Kiella in FA’s dinghy. Kiella’s dinghy high and dry in the rocks – floated off nicely once the water rose again.
The next morning we moved further up the river through 100 meter high gorge, mooring opposite a waterfall, saw our first croc, as well as rock wallabies, eagle, small boab. Took dinghy to small 2 meter waterfall, explored the rockpools, water lilies, silky oak in flower, superb St Andrew spider and web. Then went further upriver to the rock wall small falls and rock pools. Later in the afternoon we went down to the Amphitheatre Falls 60 meters, cathedral like rocky escarpment towered around the falls.
It is now Sunday morning- sent the men for water from the Red Amphitheatre falls and it was time for some serious washing to be done. Sandy had caught a 85cm Trevally early in the morning – she shared some with us which we enjoyed for tea. Marg had caught catfish but later hooked a large rock – none worth eating! Elaine caught a barra…….coota – cant be eaten, but the next morning a she surpassed all by hauling in a 95cm, about 10kilos of Trevally –will produce 3 wonderful tasty meals. Monday cruised back to the entrance of the river for early departure next morning. New moon and pod of porpoises. The Berkeley River is majestic, tranquil and extraordinarily ancient, the geological architecture is stunning.
And now from Marg
We left the Berkeley for King George River at 6.00hrs, through some robust seas which Pam and I survived rather better this time. It was very windy inside the entrance so we anchored upriver below the falls. It was fascinating to see how different the geology of this river is – it appears more eroded and crumbly in parts, more honeycombed, with some precariously balanced rocks on precipitous clifftops. But the colours are just as wonderful as in Berkeley. The river ends in 95 metre high waterfalls, with massive rock overhangs, little caves and hanging gardens forty feet above water level.
The following day we walked up a scree slope to reach the top of the falls. Beautiful rockpools and interesting clambering, with magnificent views down the valley and to the boats below. Our peace was broken by the arrival of numbers of True North passengers who not only walked up the scree behind us but arrived by helicopter! The river had become rather crowded – the cruiser had 6 dinghies on board as well as the aircraft. By the next day we were joined by jetskis and a vast catamaran. Almost time to leave.
Kiella makes it own desal water but for the last few days the adventure has been to collect our own fresh water. Ian brought the boat under the waterfall and 75 litres was collected, wet t-shirts were the least of this event! As we had had a burn-off above the river, with visible flames and an awful lot of smoke and ash, it provided a great opportunity to wash down the boat.
Next day, Friday 18/6, we headed off to Glycosmis Bay. A very calm passage for two and a half hours until the sandbar entrance required some negotiation. We anchored near the falls and went off in the dinghy in search of the cave, mapped to indicate the start of the walk up to the top. After lunch we clambered up the cliff, over rocks and under trees, two shell middens, avoiding green ants and barbed branches, to the top, and an easier walk around to the falls, past two extraordinary boab trees. One, perhaps thousand of years old, had carved sides where plates of timber for shields had been removed.
Elaines …………….
Rock climbing, green ants, rivers that zig and zag through narrow gorges, high huge boulders, vines that have wee barbs on them that snare you, waterfalls, and fresh pools, large variety of native flowers, dark skies full of starts so bright, red tinged high escarpments……these are only a few of the reflections that I have of our time since we left Darwin. The camera has worked over time and I’m sure that it can not duplicate the grandeur that we all have just seen and experienced. I have climbed rock faces that seem impossible for this person ever to have scrambled up, the reward that having done so, has been more pictures. The early part of the Kimberley’s has totally blown me away.
What we have yet to see and discover from now to Broome I’m sure will just be as exciting.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Horizontal Falls via satellite phone
It has certainly been a shock to come to anchorages and find ten or more boats already there. We have had weeks where apart from Foreign Affair we haven't seen any other boats and now, as we draw closer to Broome, we are encountering many more.
We have also been in the company of quite a few pods of whales and have had the privilege of seeing one breach - an inspiring sight.
We are currently at a place called Horizontal Falls where sea-planes land so that people can come and experience 'the ride' - an adrenalin-fuelled passage on a speed boat through the falls. Helicopters regularly come in taking people off boats to procure a birth on 'the ride'. Of course we have booked a turn today. Of course.
Love to you all. We should be in Broome in the next week or so.
We have also been in the company of quite a few pods of whales and have had the privilege of seeing one breach - an inspiring sight.
We are currently at a place called Horizontal Falls where sea-planes land so that people can come and experience 'the ride' - an adrenalin-fuelled passage on a speed boat through the falls. Helicopters regularly come in taking people off boats to procure a birth on 'the ride'. Of course we have booked a turn today. Of course.
Love to you all. We should be in Broome in the next week or so.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Indigenous cave paintings (via satellite phone)
Hello,
A lot has happened in the beautiful Kimberleys. We have been woken at night as two very large sharks rubbed barnacles off their skin against the hull of Kiella. They stayed with us for a few days and we managed to get some photos of them which we will post on the blog when we finally get receptions.
We have seen quite a few crocodiles both during the day and peering at us at night; Their eyes green like a cat's flashing when we put the spotlight on them.
But the highlight has been seeing cave paintings that date back tens of thousands of years and Indigenous middys - which are sort of like massive shell sandcastles where the indigenous people would toss their 'rubbish' after they had finished eating.
We are all well, and have settled into a lovely routine of afternoon rests and morning yacht duties around all the wonderful walks and exploring we are doing.
Love to everyone.
A lot has happened in the beautiful Kimberleys. We have been woken at night as two very large sharks rubbed barnacles off their skin against the hull of Kiella. They stayed with us for a few days and we managed to get some photos of them which we will post on the blog when we finally get receptions.
We have seen quite a few crocodiles both during the day and peering at us at night; Their eyes green like a cat's flashing when we put the spotlight on them.
But the highlight has been seeing cave paintings that date back tens of thousands of years and Indigenous middys - which are sort of like massive shell sandcastles where the indigenous people would toss their 'rubbish' after they had finished eating.
We are all well, and have settled into a lovely routine of afternoon rests and morning yacht duties around all the wonderful walks and exploring we are doing.
Love to everyone.
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