'Houses are but badly built boats so firmly aground that you cannot think of moving them. They are definitely inferior things, belonging to the vegetable not the animal world, rooted and stationary, incapable of gay transition. The desire to build a house is the tired wish of man content thenceforward with a single anchorage. The desire to build a boat is the desire of youth, unwilling yet to accept the idea of a final resting-place'. - Arthur Ransome





'For the truth is that I already know as much about my fate as I need to know. The day will come when I will die. So the only matter of consequence before me is what I will do with my allotted time. I can remain on shore, paralysed with fear, or I can raise my sails and dip and soar in the breeze.'
-Richard Bode



Sunday, May 30, 2010

VICTORIA SETTLEMENT

 
Part of the remains of their homes
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Lessons on knots

 
Part of Reefs schoolwork was learning to tie knots. This day was reef knots....why not.
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Reef wearing Tazs undies

 
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Maningrida to Darwin

Barges to refuel from have been a single experience for us previously . They are either permanently moored or move from major cities to remote areas carrying fuel plus other goods. Our only time was the Lockhart River and that barge was only 20 + meters, so when we booked fuel to be picked at Maningrida at 0600 on 24 May through Perkins Shipping, little did we expect that it would so big. A phone call just after 0200 to let us know that they were running a little early,like how early !!!! By 0400 we had taken on our 600litres and made a decision to push on to Valentia Island a 110 nm trip. Reef slept through the whole saga and awoke just on dawn.
Liverpool River/Maningrida wasn’t to bad a place to wait, as we had the dingy firmly tied on. Our plans were to push on as soon as we had refueled and put some distance behind us, then we could tow it from islands to islands until the long haul to Darwin,when back onto the duck board. Our time in the river while waiting gave Taz a chance to land his first fish, a nice size cat fish. While our lack of knowledge of what to eat and not, we decided to return it to the water after taking photos.
FA , who were enjoying their time fishing north of us, joined us at Valentia Island. Reef was elated to see again his new best friend Sandy. Our attempt at fishing that evening, dragging our depleted supply of lures behind the dingy saw nil, while FA landed a fish that we all were not quiet sure what it was.
Today we are on the way to Port Essington which has a colonial history, many little bays to explore plus a resort, which we hope that they may give us permission to visit.
3 Days later……….. The resort had closed, pearl farming was in some of the bays, the little shop had closed at Black Point, therefore NO ice creams, but Pete the ranger in charge came to the rescue and Reef enjoyed a Paddle Pop. He also gave us much valuable information about the area and suggested a couple of walks to do;FA were due in the next day so some much needed leg stretching was planned. That evening, taking heed of the tidal information given to us,[ as spring tides were due in a few days, ]we were very comfortable that we had plenty of water under us. What a shock at 2100 to hear a grinding noise, investigations led us to site a bommie, uncharted of course about 1 to 1.5 meters square responsible for the sound. Ian in the dingy pushing and lots of what if’s and what about, we finally moved away from it with help from the tide and lots of chain in the dingy One hour later we had re set the anchor in deeper water and felt that we got out of what could have been an interesting situation very well. .
The next day was one of reflection and a walk around the “swamp” behind the rangers hut. Our warm up stretch/walk of only 1.5 km was helpful as we walked Victoria Settlement a 3.7km early the following day. This area was established in 1838 by the British as the fear of Dutch and French expansion into the southern East Indies and a presence was needed. They battled for 11 years and the remains of their stone buildings from a hospital, blacksmith forge, quartermasters store, kiln etc are still remarkably preserved. Reef was great all the time and enjoyed playing with a five year old boy we met on the walk.
Today we are anchored in Darwin.A very early start this morning a near full moon saw the anchor [which was covered in mud up to the shaft] up finally. With the tides pushing us along at 21kts at one stage, our passage was good with only a few hours of two meter seas beam on. Our plans are tomorrow to be locked in to Cullen Bay Marina, this process involves making a booking with the lock master and well next time I will have all the ins and outs of going through a lock.

Monday, May 24, 2010

Hole in the Wall

 
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Large Tracks

 
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Reef Point and Reef

 
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Reef chilling out

 
Reef and Taz joined us for this passage,although we couldn't go ashore for 3 days Reef had a ball
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Gove to Maningirida

Gove /Nhulunbuy has been our spot until Tuesday 18th May when we up anchored at 0625. Monday evening we hopped into our hired Ute and picked up Taz and Reef from the airport. We spoke to him on the 13th of May, indicating that there was an airport in Gove and if he wanted to come up, the next minute Taz had booked tickets for himself and Reef. The little airport was surprisingly busy waiting the second of only two flights that enter the airport. Two well endowed ‘entertainers’ for the local miners were also on the flight – which caused many heads to turn as they picked up their zebra patterned luggage from the carrousel.
Our time in Gove was one of chilling out and enjoying the yacht club for meals, drinks, [especially happy hour] catching up with the washing and refueling. We had read that it was the most expensive place to purchase diesel, but to our surprise it has a long way to go to match Sydney.
Gove had no expectations for us except it would be hot. The spot for us to anchor was near the bauxite processing plant and in front of the yacht club. There were other vessels there as lots lived on their boats while working for RIO while many we saw, no one was around them and shame to say they looked like it.
Meeting some of the locals and listening to their stories plus their passion for the area as why they have elected to stay after traveling here and then securing employment in teaching, administration or the mining industry. An interesting fact regarding the mine and how they get the bauxite from the mine to the plant at the port; is the use of a conveyer belt which is over 23 km long. They even have their own seasons e.g. Granny season, when the weather cools sufficient that allows the relatives to come for a visit, cute.

Our passage from Gove was through the famous hole in the wall, in the Wessel group of Islands. This passage, called Gugari Rip is approx 60 meters wide and just over 2 km long. The tides play a very important part as it can run over 10kts. With all available reading material, tide book and advice from a local fishing tour operator we chose 1140 as the start time for entering, this meant a early start and with the forecast 15 to 20 and a beam sea, not the most comfortable passage for the family. They both did surprisingly well (playing Pirate’s to stop the sea sickness!) and after 3 hours we turned more north and the count down started for the approach into the ‘hole in the wall’. Ian took Kiella through and while Taz handled the camera and Reef and I sat outside and looked at the amazing vista (and the unfortunate rocks that people had graffitied on.)

Our anchorage for the evening was just south in an unnamed bay and in a non surveyed area .The next morning while trying to lower the dingy our crane decided to have a hissy fit and gave way, the dingy lightly bounced off the side of Kiella turning it on its side therefore spilling the anchor and dislodging the outboard which hung there for a second before sliding into the water, Well it was back on board within minutes after Ian grabbed his snorkeling gear and jumped in with a rope, while Taz bailed out the water. The rest of what happened with in those moments I will leave to your imagination; needless to say after some attention and spraying it goes, but will have a check up when we get to Darwin. We spent time playing on the beach and checking out the maize of animal tracks across the sand and even spotted a 40 cm high animal (miniature wallaby?). A sea eagle took off as we climbed a sand dune a large feather fell out which we came across; later that evening we saw it catch a fish.
The next day we headed north as Coastal Watch who had again radioed us; had passed on the co-ordinates of FA with their permission .We met them latter that day and we all enjoyed a display of large manta rays fishing.[ The next day one leaped out between our boats and gave all a display of the power and size of this magnificent fish.]Around 1600 when some of the heat from the day had gone we all enjoyed another walk, Frisbee throwing, making letters and numbers in the sand for Reef to read and looking at soldier crabs checking out one an others shells .Being aware of the environment and its possible inhabitants we are always on the look out; when Ian suddenly popped his hand up to stop, in front was large fresh tracks of a crocodile. We took a quick photo and headed back to our dingy.
Early the next morning, with help from Bill we secured the dingy to the duck board and headed WSW to Maningirida in the Liverpool River as we have a meeting with a fuel barge. From there we have 9 days to get to Darwin and so many more interesting places to visit and explore.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Margaret Bay to Gove

Margaret Bay is such a great place. I can see us spending time there heading south as there is so much to do; weather depending off course. The prawn trawlers use it to anchor early morning to finish sorting out their catch. They have a large pot of boiling water in which they dump the prawns to cook; then into a brine which helps to harden up the shells and give them a better flavor. The packing and freezing then takes place; before sleep then they head out around 1800 hrs. Local knowledge from a fellow cruiser, pointed us to the correct trawler at the appropriate time and we all enjoyed the best prawns ever. Once this contact was made bugs the next day, know wonder a fellow boatie spends months there.
A fighter plane called an Aero Cobra which we presume had to make a forced landing on the beach 1944/45 was visible at low water .It was in remarkable condition considering time, plus the damage that salt water has on all things. Oysters found this piece of history a wonderful place to flourish and we helped make way for more to grow. There are a number of planes in this area including a Mitchell Bomber, most we were told in remarkable condition.
May 9th saw an early start with Escape River our chosen spot for the evening. Seven hours later we entered dogging logs in the water, plus using only one motor as we still had a wee issue to sort out. Bob and Bill came over[ after spotting their first crocodile] and with much scratching of beards and looking, comparing both engine, a loose wire was spotted .What one silly wire can do to the crew of Kiella, not a good day for all. After recharging the battery and enjoying a well earned whisky , the starter key turned and what a lovely sound that starboard engine made and best of all the battery indicator headed to green. The celebrations didn’t end there as we cut our first cherry tomato grown onboard into tiny pieces and shared with Sandy, Bill and Bob.
Tides are going to play a huge part of moving around the Kimberly’s as one needs to use them and not battle against them. Our first experience of this was the next day after leaving the Escape River as we needed to motor through the Albany Pass, this according to all our research can move at 6 kts so timing was important. We made it through at bottom of the tide and anchored an hour later to stake our claim for Victoria at the most northern part of the mainland. By 1400 we had anchored off the beach at Seisia in what turned out to be a little shallow so a quick up anchor two hours later and we moved 100 meters.
Today we are crossing the Gulf of Carpentaria a long trek of approx 345 nm .We had to wait for a weather window and guess what; no waiting. Sometimes one has to be prepared to wait a week or more. So an early start again on the 11th., after going ashore the previous afternoon to purchase an ice-cream each and a few fresh apples. The prices are not that cheap, but we are along way from Cairns or Darwin.
Our crossing went really well and we are only an hour out from Gove .Traveling at night, especially when there is no moon, ones senses become magnified many times over. The waves seem so much larger as you are picked up and go surfing at 18+ into some dark space. A quick look around of the back cockpit, as going out side is a no-no, at night ;revealed 3 fish. Is someone taking pity on me, as to fly them in? Will have to check all around the boat as I’m sure that the smell of a miss placed fish in this heat isn’t what we need.
Our time in Gove who knows? Darwin beckons us late May early June.[ Our email is at the top, would love to hear from some of you.]

Monday, May 10, 2010

We made it 10 May 2010

 
We arrived at 1030 and proclaimed it for Victoria
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Aero Cobra

 
This Aero Cobra was on the beach, growing our dinner
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Mud Crab

 

A gift from the fisherman
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Hunter to Margaret Bay

The Hunter Inlet in Bobs words “we are as remote as you can get in Australia even more so than the Kimberly’s” The large mangroves grow right to the waters edge and with Mosquito Point next door, thank goodness for these strong winds that we keep on getting, as it has kept all biting things away. We plan to stay 2 nights and this gives Sandy on FA the chance to try her new crab pots. Within 2 hours she has one in each pot, the bait in them, was our mackerel bits and pieces which had been kept for this. We trolled the side of the creek in both dinghies the next morning and had a chat to some fisherman who had just come in. Their home port is Yeppon,, while Margaret Bay is the furthest north they travel, so they were one day into the long haul home. They presented us with a crab that they caught that morning and also shared some useful tips in regard to crocodiles. Both boats enjoyed fresh crab for lunch .
The weather reports indicated that we are in for 3 days of 25/30 SE so Margaret Bay is planned for Friday 7th May. All our reading material mentions white beaches at low tide and excellent holding in sand. After 2 hours and 20 minutes of not the most comfortable seas that I have been in; we are anchored with 4 fishing boats and FA. We have the generator going at the moment as our alternator had a slight hic cup on the way. Ian has tightened the belt and the battery charge looks sooooo much better. The solar panels are really putting in as well. The heat outside is well what one would expect, as we are 11 degrees south of the equator! Struth only 37 days ago we were still in Port Franklin.
The tide is receding and yes it looks like we could find some oysters on the rocks plus the sand is white and just like the pictures in the books.

Great fishing

 
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Fishing!!!!!!!

Fishing, well it should be really easy. I as you can remember, purchased this new rod and reel for trolling. More on that subject later.
The second of May saw us leaving Lizard Island after 3 nights /2 days. The anchorage was empty as only 5 boats, later in the season we have been informed 60 is quiet the norm. The social activates that surround this many who are “waiting for the wind to change” can be huge.
Prior to us leaving Port Franklin, the longest I have ever stayed on Kiella was one night. What works well and what doesn’t has been a sharp learning curve, from the electric oven {which is going to have a permanent holiday when we get home}, the great bread maker, the freezer which leaves a lot of research still to why it will not hold frozen food in ½ of it, the need for reflective blinds inside the front windows. Most of these we have addressed while Kiella just keeps going along. My only attempt at making muffins was aborted as the oven would not heat with out the generator going, so we made the best pancakes from the mixture, thanks for the suggestion Taz.
The trip from Lizard Island to Princess Charlotte Bay was about 86nm; SE 20/25 kts.again was forecast. The plan was to follow the shoals and dragging some lures for about 1 ½ hours. New rod tied on securely to the boat and out I let the line, this we did over a few spots and no luck. The reason I felt was that we still had bananas onboard so the 3 little lady fingers I ate, boy was I feeling crook. Never mind all in a good cause. The last passage we entered through was Rattlesnake and out went the lines again. The squeals of the rod went and guess what; we could not wind it in!!!! Gloves on Ian to help pull the line in were not a lot of help and the big one is still swimming around for someone else. We had a lesson from Bob that evening and today it worked and a lovely Spanish mackerel was brought to the boat but didn’t like the look of us and let go as we tried to bring it onboard.
Princess Charlotte Bay to Lockhart River on Tuesday 4 May our beautiful Piper Lanes third birthday. Flynn rang on the sat phone so that we could chat to her. This form of communication takes a little getting use to as the delays and especially for me talking slower. Almond Point near the entrance to the river is where we had arranged fuel from the barge Temple Bar, part of the Sea swift shipping fleet. No luck with the lures again, but FA invited us to share their bounty
Today we are up the Hunter Inlet in Temple Bay and you can nearly smell the top end. This inlet is barred and we had very little under the keel crossing it. F A are going crabbing and Bob traveled with us today to watch the refueling from the barge, experience a different power cat plus teach us to fish Queensland style. Yes we have fish for dinner!15klg and 8 klg Spanish mackerel.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

New Wheels

 

Bob and Ian checking out the wheels, we need to make some small changes still.
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FA and Kiella

 
Foreign Affair and Kiella ...Lizard Island
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Looking up the the Lookout

 
Taken from Mrs. Watsons Bay
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At the top of Cooks Lookout

 

Foreign Affair and Kiella's crew
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Cooks lookout

 
Gee, Cook was younger when he walked it!
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Lizard Island

We left the marina at 0625 on 30th. April; Kiella again headed north, see you Cairns hopefully in October. The last 2 days we had a hire car to share; this made the last minute shopping for fresh bits and pieces so much easier. Charles Crockford who taught with Ian at the Technical School was running the car hire place, small world! Unfortunatlly Ian was preoccupied with servicing the boat and missed catching up with him this time.
I had the chance to drive north to check out a fishing shop so that I could troll. I found myself doing the scenic drive in the wrong direction and fortunately came across some road works that allowed me to do a u turn and finally found the highway.
Our plan for the first stop was a wee atoll, but around 1100 FA radioed and expressed their concern to the wind shift which had more south in it. This would make the anchorage not real comfortable. After some quick re jigging of the course Lizard Island was agreed as our evening anchorage. Full diesel tanks and those lovely oranges bladders again in the rear cockpit we moved up a notch and achieved some great speeds. The fuel consumption went up, up, so down came the revs and with the computer telling us that we would make our destination by 1700. We enjoyed this new part of the coast and many islands as Port Douglas was furthest north we had sailed to.
At 1425 we received a call from a passing Custom boat wanting our details, again. This will become more frequent as we head north.
Lizard Island appeared and at 1700 we steered around the bommies to drop anchor in 3 meters of water. Gee those computers are cleaver little things. The wind has not eased and bullets are the norm here. Today we did the must have which is to climb up to “Cooks Lookout”. The story goes that in 1770 young James Cook climbed this 358 meter mountain to check out the passage north. Here he found away between the reefs thus the name. Quiet a good climb and a good nights rest should be had by all.
Well not really as some bullets that came through last night, Bob reckoned they had to be close to 50kts. Opps, I should have introduced Bob to you all. He hails from Raby Bay and is a close friend of Bill and Sandy’s. The opportunity to travel to Darwin was too good, as he and his wife Gil have down many sea miles, but not this far north. He has a reputation as a super fisherman; as yet we have not seen any evidence to that.
Today we went to look around the beach area and the remains maybe of Mrs. Watson’s home, scare some pesky seagulls off the boat and throw over the caterpillars that are coming from my tomato plants. They had to have a little dusting three days ago as I could see all my good work being eaten away.
Tomorrow we are heading to Princess Charlotte Bay, then onto Lockhart River where we will refuel. I have made arrangements through Sea swift in Cairns, and have been told that a barge will be there, fingers crossed.
The satellite phone will come in very handy over the next months as Telstra is lacking towers up here. The weather pattern is still 20 /25 kts. SE and a strong wind warning is current for today. This we learnt from Taz who is SMS the updates to the sat/ phone.
Crabs and oysters are going to be eaten over the next week so think of us all.